Third Reich in color

Many thanks. Any other suggestions?

 

Jba,

Sorry for the long wait. I don't have the time to write something elaborate at the moment, so sorry. I swear some day I will write a more comprehensive suggestion.

1. It needs to have Digital Ice (Called ICE for short), with your dirty slides which you can't clean its absolutely necessary. It will make a difference of night and day. I'll only talk about scanners with digital ICE here. (Only works for colour, not for b/w due to how it works)

2. Some software (Like vuescan, which I advice) supports saving as processed JPG, processed TIFF, but also as a RAW scan.

I suggest not only saving a processed scan, but also the RAW scan as 64-bit RGBI tiff, so you always have a high-quality unprocessed source to go back to when you later on find something you don't like, or you want to do something big with the photos and JPG no longer provides.

The storage requirements will be large, but what is a few harddrives in comparison to the best possible preservation, and you'll never have to scan them again!

I have it setup to save as both processed 24-bit TIFF and 64-bit RAW. Both their own name and own map.

3. Think of a good nomenclature. Software like vuescan (I am not paid by them i swear!) supports automatically increasing the number of a file name. Make something thats clear, all-inclusive and makes it easy to find. For example: Axis-Colour-Tray1B-001+ This will save you tons of headaches in the long run as your digital collection grows. Also save each individual collection in their own folder!

4. High end flatbed scanners like the Epson V700, V850 and V750 may claim they can resolve up to 6400DPI, but in reality their limit is around 1500-2000DPI. Really only dedicated film scanners can resolve beyond 2000+ DPI. I do have an Epson V750, great for large format, good for medium format. Only decent for 35mm...

5. For flatbeds I would for go an Epson Perfection V700-V750 or V800-750. Easy way to get access to everything from 35mm to 10x8 large format.

6. For dedicated film scanners, I would get a late Coolscan. They are very expensive, but you have seen my results... they do wonders. The small ones (Nikon Coolscan 4000-5000) Use USB and can accept 35mm film strips and slides. The big ones (Super Coolscan 8000-9000) use firewire, support 35mm film, slides but also medium format film and slides.

The Reflecta RPS 10M is also quite good, 5000 DPI. but I returned mine because it couldn't focus very well on a lot of my film and slides... I noticed the focus range was not very long, nor was it automatic. I had to do it manually in vuescan and sometimes the range was not great enough for a sharp scan...

7. Every scanner is different. every software is different. Don't be put off by things not working out at first. Keep trying until you developed a workflow you are happy with.

You can read reviews about tons of scanners here: Detailed test reports and experience reports about film scanners slide scanners: market overview, application in practice

Remember, no scanner is perfect. But we have to try our best and work around this....


If you need help i'll gladly provide it. Can't wait for more.

Regards

 

Have you decided on a scanner and software?

^.^

 

I started looking for one then with all of the crazy “virus” things going on it took a back seat. Hoping once things get back to normal and I get my 18 year old off to college (hopefully) I can start my quest again.

 

I hope you and your family are doing well.

If you want you can send me several slides and I can scan them with a variety of scanners and workflows. I 've got an Epson V750, nikon super coolscan 8000 & 9000, a minolta scandual 3 and I am working on a proper DSLR scanning setup with a macro lens, some results of which you can see at my 9.5mm thread, of 9.5mm film! I'm thinking about getting a minolta scan dual 4 because it has a superior film strip holder compared to my nikon super coolscan. The minolta holders are able to keep film strips much, much flatter if they are curved. The case with WWII film if it has been kept in a roll for +70 years.

The slides should be varied, from best-case good colours, very little dirt to a worst case with a bad colour cast and lots of grime, intermediates too.

So you can see the results with different scanners and software. And I am curious if any weird artefacts appear with using Digital Ice on Agfacolor, and if software has any trouble correcting colour casts, which seem to be all over the place with agfacolor. But All colours appear to be there... so likely its possible, I've dealt with much, much worse.

I've tried colour-correcting the JPGs you post here but it doesnt work with those, not enough fidelity and colour depth.

Regards