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Photos from my 2012 European Trip

Discussion in 'WWII Today' started by George Patton, Dec 20, 2012.

  1. George Patton

    George Patton Canadian Refugee

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    As some of you might remember, I took a trip through Belgium, Luxembourg, France, Germany and Austria this summer. As the old saying goes, 'better late than never', here are some pictures and a trip report. Enjoy. I've lowered the quality of the photos so they have a reasonable size, but they are still large. Those with slow internet might not want to look.

    Part 1: Luxembourg

    I spent three days in Luxembourg. Of those, I had one and a half free days to tour around. I spent the 'half day' looking at the local sites, specifically the former Gestapo Headquarters, the American Military Cemetery in Hamm and the German Soldiers' Cemetery in Sandweiler.

    American Military Cemetery in Hamm:

    The cemetery is the final resting place of over 5000 American soldiers, most of whom were killed in the Battle of the Bulge. Two Medal of Honor recipients are buried here, as is General Patton (whose grave is located at the front of the cemetery, overlooking 'his' troops).

    View attachment 17970
    The main gate, located off "Rue Dwight David Eisenhower"

    View attachment 17971
    The view as you enter the cemetery.

    View attachment 17972
    The chapel at the center is flanked by two stone columns. Each has a map on one side, and a roster of MIA servicemen on the other.

    View attachment 17973
    One of the two maps. This shows the advance of the various Allied armies into Germany. Each color indicates a different army. The map shows the aerial campaign.

    View attachment 17978
    The large plaque at the front of the cemetery. It reads "All who shall hereafter live in freedom will be reminded that to these men and their comrades we owe a debt to be paid with grateful remembrance of their sacrifices and with the high resolve that the cause for which they died shall live eternally".

    View attachment 17979
    The chapel.

    View attachment 17976
    Some of the graves.

    View attachment 17975
    Looking towards the front from the middle of the plots. You can see the two maps/roster columns and the chapel.

    View attachment 17977
    General Patton's grave, located at the head of his troops.
     

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  2. George Patton

    George Patton Canadian Refugee

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    Finally, a panoramic view of the cemetery. Patton's grave is in the center of the photo, with the concrete pad in-front presumably there so that the grass doesn't get trampled. Of the dozen other people that visited in the time I was there, ten of them went to see Patton and then left.

    View attachment 17980
     

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  3. belasar

    belasar Court Jester

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    Great Photo's!
     
  4. George Patton

    George Patton Canadian Refugee

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    German Military Cemetery, Sandweiler

    This is located just over one and a half kilometers from the American cemetery. It is the resting place of nearly 11000 soldiers, many killed in the Battle of the Bulge. Originally, many of these men were buried alongside American casualties in the field that now contains the American Cemetery. The Germans there were moved here after the war -- as were most others buried in various cemeteries throughout Luxembourg. This cemetery opened in 1955.

    View attachment 17982
    The 'main gate'. Unlike the US Battle Monument Commission, the German War Graves Commission is primarily funded by donations. As such, the cemetery is much less elaborate.

    View attachment 17983
    As you walk down the gravel trail, you can see the cemetery through the trees.

    View attachment 17984
    Looking towards the large cross monument from the entrance.

    View attachment 17988
    The entrance to the cemetery. There is a small room off to the side, and a donation box. There are no elaborate markers like those found in Hamm.

    View attachment 17985
    The cross.

    View attachment 17987
    Some of the graves. Many of these are unknown -- marked with "Ein Deutsche Soldat". Each cross represents four graves; two in the front, and two behind.

    View attachment 17991
    A panoramic view of the cemetery from the entrance way. No one else visited when I was there, although it contains twice as many graves as the American one located just down the road.

    Gestapo Headquarters, Luxembourg

    This building, "Villa Pauly" has the dubious distinction of being home to the Gestapo HQ for Luxembourg. Today it is a museum dedicated to the resistance (unfortunately closed when I visited).

    View attachment 17989
    View attachment 17990
     

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  5. LRusso216

    LRusso216 Graybeard Staff Member

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    Great photos, Alan. They really bring home the lives lost. Thanks for posting them.
     
  6. 36thID

    36thID Member

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    Excellent Photos !! Thanks for sharing.

    You are one heck of a photographer. You captured it perfect.
     
  7. GRW

    GRW Pillboxologist WW2|ORG Editor

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    Great stuff, Alan. Thanks.
     
  8. George Patton

    George Patton Canadian Refugee

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    Thanks everyone. As it turns out, it was good to visit these two cemeteries before venturing to the actual battlefields. They really give you a feel for the massive scale of the war.

    Tomorrow I'll post part 2 -- the Battle of the Bulge. I predict at least three times as many photos as these past messages.
     
  9. George Patton

    George Patton Canadian Refugee

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    Part 2: Battle of the Bulge

    Here's the first installment of the part 2 'set'. This covers the area around Bastogne. The other messages in this set will cover Foy, Houffalize, La Gleize, Stavelot, Malmedy, Poteau, and most places in between.

    The Pillbox:

    At 4:50 on December 26th 1944 the 4th Armored broke through into Bastogne. This pillbox marks the location where the spearhead tank, Charles Boggess' "Cobra King", linked up with units of the 101st Airborne.

    View attachment 17997
    The front of the pillbox, facing west if I recall correctly. The sign on the front (and a historical sign on the road) are the only things that advertise the historic nature of this site.

    View attachment 18000
    The other side of the pillbox, showing the entrance. The pillbox is located near an industrial complex in Assenois, just outside of Bastogne, and was built by the Belgians before the German invasion of 1940.

    View attachment 17998
    The firing port. This bunker was occupied by the Germans on the 26th. Lt. Boggess' gunner fired at it with the tank's machine gun, quickly clearing it out. They linked up with the 101st just past this bunker.

    View attachment 17999
    Looking down the road from inside the pillbox.

    Bastogne:

    View attachment 18001
    Each of the seven main roads into the town have a Sherman turret marking the point where the German advance was stopped. This one (mounting a 76mm) is located on Rue de Neufchateau, to the southwest of the main town.

    View attachment 18005
    This M4A3 Sherman sits on the main square -- McAuliffe Square -- in Bastogne. It was knocked out on December 30th just outside Bastogne.

    View attachment 18003
    The tank took two penetrating hits: one on the side, and one of the back. Using the highly-scientific method of measuring the diameter of the side hole with my camera lens, I'd guess it was a 75mm shell. The crew was captured, and the seriously wounded tank commander died in captivity.

    View attachment 18006
    The statue of General McAuliffe in 'his' square. McAullife unveiled the statue the night before the Mardasson Memorial was opened in the 1950.

    View attachment 18002
    One of the 1147 markers on the 'Liberty Road'. The 'Road' follows the advance of the Allies from St. Mere-Eglise to Bastogne, with one marker every kilometer. The last one is located at the Mardasson Memorial. This, the third last, is located beside the McAuliffe statue.

    View attachment 18004
    Some of the buildings in McAullife Square. There is a photo taken from the same angle just after the battle showing these buildings in ruins. I'll see if I can find it.
     

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  10. George Patton

    George Patton Canadian Refugee

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    Bastogne Continued:

    View attachment 18007
    A three-photo panorama of McAuliffe Square -- difficult to do because of the heavy traffic. The Sherman is behind the minivan. The visitor's center is that round building to the left.

    View attachment 18011
    Looking east from the middle of the main intersection.

    The 'Original Museum':

    The small 'Original Museum' was the first museum in Bastogne. Its not as big or elaborate as the other museums (most of the Bulge artifacts are in the basement), but the interesting collection makes up for it. Most of the artifacts have been dug up from the fields -- something I didn't see much of in the other museums I visited. For someone who has already seen all the weapons before, I found it rewarding to see these 'dug' artifacts.

    View attachment 18009
    The 'Bulge' Collection. For the small admission fee, its worthwhile to visit if you want to see original (unrestored) relics.

    View attachment 18008
    Some of the artifacts. You can see several rifles to the bottom left (the wood has long since rotted away), various entrenching tools and canteens, two panzerfausts, a Stg44 in the middle and several pistols at the top.

    101st Airborne Museum:

    View attachment 18010
    This building, the old officer's mess, is home to the 101st Airborne Museum. Despite the hours listed on the sign at the front, the museum was closed when I was there. Note that this is not McAuliffe's HQ -- that's located up the road (which, sadly, I missed visiting)

    Leaving Bastogne:

    View attachment 18012
    One of the other five Sherman turrets. This is along the road to the Mardasson Memorial, and carries the insignia of the 10th Armored. I took the picture out of the window as I drove by -- not an easy task when your camera weighs almost three pounds and you're driving a standard!

    Mardasson Memorial:

    The Mardasson memorial was opened in 1950 to commemorate the American sacrifices in the Ardennes. Its located next to the Bastogne Historical Center, one of the premier museums in the area. It was closed when I was there -- it looks like they had a fire. The hill the memorial is located on (allegedly) marks the furthest German advance into Bastogne. A German patrol made it to the top of the hill, one of its members was killed by American troops and the survivors retreated.

    View attachment 18013
    A statue commemorating the 101st Airborne.

    View attachment 18014
    The memorial -- shaped as a massive star. The names of every US state are mounted on the outer and inner edge of the memorial. A staircase takes visitors to the top, which provides excellent views of the surrounding area.

    View attachment 18015
    Looking down into the center of the memorial from the top.

    View attachment 18016
    Looking out from the top.
     

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  11. George Patton

    George Patton Canadian Refugee

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    Here's the next set.

    Mardasson Memorial (Continued):

    This M10 Achilles belongs to the Bastogne Historical Center. It was moved to the parking lot because the museum is closed.

    View attachment 18032

    Easy Company Foxholes:

    Unlike many other battlefields, many of the 'Bulge' sites remain intact. In the forests all around Bastogne you can still find foxholes and shell craters. Since I had limited time, I chose to visit the best-known site: Easy Company's position overlooking Foy in the Bois Jacques.

    View attachment 18034
    Someone still clears this area (as is evident from the piles of cut branches) and preserves the foxholes.

    View attachment 18033
    This cross is the only indicator of what happened here. There are no signs the site.

    View attachment 18035
    A foxhole. Foy is located to the center-right.

    View attachment 18036
    Looking out from one of the foxholes towards Foy.

    View attachment 18037
    Two more foxholes near the N30 road leading into Foy. You can also find shell craters, attesting to the heavy shelling from German artillery near Foy. The foxholes are long and shallow (digging was difficult due to the frozen ground) while the shell craters are circular.

    View attachment 18038
    The monument to Easy Company (and before anyone asks, that is not me in the reflection!).

    Foy:

    View attachment 18039
    The view of Foy from outside the forest. The town was liberated on January 16th by units of 2nd Battalion, 506th PIR. This assault was depicted in "Band of Brothers".

    Next set: Houffalize, Parker's Crossroads
     

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  12. George Patton

    George Patton Canadian Refugee

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    Houffalize:

    About 15 minutes away from Bastogne, Houffalize is one of the larger towns in the region. British and Americans troops linked up here mid-January, a pivotal moment in 'closing the Bulge'. This town is well-known today for its Panther tank.

    View attachment 18040
    This pillbox (likely a pre-war Belgian one like the one near Bastogne) is located off the side of the road that enters Houffalize from the south. I took this picture out the car window.

    View attachment 18041
    The Panther. This tank belonged to the 116th Panzer Division. Note the suspension 'modification'. This isn't an example of late-war German cost-cutting! -- the last Houffalize picture explains this.

    View attachment 18042
    Its in rough shape, with most things except the hull and turret itself missing, but still an interesting piece to see.

    View attachment 18043
    Looking over the tank. The engine deck is covered with steel plate, not the original grates.

    View attachment 18044
    The same Panther, 68 years earlier. It fell off the bridge (or broke down and was pushed over the edge) during the German retreat out of the area. Either way, the tank flipped and wrecked the suspension.

    Parker's Crossroads:

    From December 19th Major Arthur Parker set up his three remaining artillery pieces at this once-important road junction. Along with scattered units retreating from the east, he held the crossroads for four days before surrendering. Today the site is marked by a 105mm howitzer and a small plaque.

    View attachment 18045
    The 105mm howitzer. As far as I know, this is not one of the guns actually used by Parker's men during the battle.

    View attachment 18046
    Looking east from the crossroads. Today, this site is the location of several cafes. The major A26 highway (about 500m behind me) has taken away a lot of its importance as a major traffic hub, but it was still a very busy intersection.

    Next Set: La Gleize, Stavelot
     

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  13. LRusso216

    LRusso216 Graybeard Staff Member

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    More great pictures, Alan. I envy both your trip and your ability to take evocative photos.
     
  14. SKYLINEDRIVE

    SKYLINEDRIVE Member

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    Great thread Alan!!!! It looks like you had a great time. It's funny to see pictures "from home" on the web! I'm looking forward for more.
     
  15. Skipper

    Skipper Kommodore

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    Good show and nice quality pics. I'll be driving through the area soon on a trip via France and Holland. I'll roughly cross the border at Sedan and then go north up to the Eupen area, liege, then Maastricht , Arnhem and further north.
     
  16. Martin Bull

    Martin Bull Acting Wg. Cdr

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    Oh no ! :eek: Kampfgruppe Skipper, ruthlessly acquiring militaria bargains as it cuts a swathe across Europe......:D
     
  17. George Patton

    George Patton Canadian Refugee

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    Thanks again for the comments everyone. I'd love to spend a week in the area. Maybe next time -- I already have a mental list of what to see!

    Here's the next installment.

    The Stavelot-La Gleize area is where the advance of Kampfgruppe Peiper was stopped. American engineers blew several bridges over the Salm and Ambleve River, bottling him in. Stiff American resistance forced the Kampfgruppe to retreat to La Gleize. After fighting for several days, it left its vehicles behind and retreated back to German lines on foot.

    La Gleize:

    This town is famous for its Tiger II, abandoned by Peiper before his December 24th retreat. Slated to be scrapped, one of the citizens bought it from the American engineers (allegedly for a bottle of wine) and preserved it.

    View attachment 18048
    The Tiger II. Often seen in "Battle of the Bulge Tour" advertisements.

    View attachment 18049
    The back of the Tiger. Its in good condition overall. You can see dents from small arms fire and shrapnel (machine gun fire?) just behind the '213' on the turret. I don't know what its like inside -- I received permission from the owner to climb on top, but the hatch was sealed shut.

    View attachment 18050
    Impact marks on the front plate. I don't know whether these are battle damage or evidence of 'target practice'. As you can see, none penetrated. None-the-less, I'm surprised the shell at the bottom didn't ricochet off.

    View attachment 18047
    Inside the 'December 44' Museum. Its another small museum, but has a good collection. The lady there when I visited (I think she's the owner) was very nice, even letting me go into the back room to pick out a few books to buy and climbing up on the Tiger.

    View attachment 18051
    The Tiger and the museum. As an interesting side note, does anyone see a problem with that muzzle brake? Its a 75mm (taken off one of Skorzeny's 'Panther M10' vehicles), not an 88mm. Apparently few have noticed. It was a replacement for the 88mm muzzle brake, which went missing during (or shortly after) the war.

    Stavelot:

    This town is where Peiper's advance stalled. The town was heavily defended by the Americans but (after several days of fighting), Peiper took it. The Americans launched a counterattack on December 18th, wand by the night of the 19th the town was in American hands again. Peiper's units retreated to La Gleize. During the battle Peiper's men killed about two hundred civillians in the immediate area, and there are several monuments (Stavelot has three alone).

    View attachment 18052
    This M3 halftrack sits on the south side of the town. The Ambleve River is directly behind it.

    View attachment 18053
    The Ambleve bridge. It was destroyed by American engineers on the 17/18th to prevent the Germans from using it. The bridge in the photo, likely built using the stones from the destroyed one, sits on the same location and is an exact duplicate. The original was several hundred years old -- one of the oldest bridges in the area.

    View attachment 18054
    A panoramic view of the Stavelot area. I believe his men retreated through the trees on the far side of the valley. This was taken from one of the small roads leading to Malmedy.

    Next Installment: Baugnez ('The Malmedy Massacre') and Poteau (site of the famous 'road crossing' German photos).
     

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  18. Cas

    Cas Member

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    Skipper,

    When are coming to Europe, if you should visit Maastricht please let me know, i'd love to take you to the US Cemetary in Margraten
     
  19. Cas

    Cas Member

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    Great photo's George Patton,

    I've been to the La Gleize Museaum, (currently closed to remoddeling) owner monsieur Detrez is a known collector in the scene.
     
  20. Skipper

    Skipper Kommodore

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    Cheers Cas, I currently live in France. This time I'm only driving through Maastricht on a trip to Friesland and won't have to visit the south of the Netherlands, but another time I would be happy to visit Margatten.
     

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