This is the final collection of parts for the steampunk build. I'm waiting for the paints and airbrushing equipment which should arrive early this week. When I'm done there will be about $1200 in the build, but the airbrushing equipment and special paints are about $300 of that and I can use them for other guns. So, about $900 for the actual rifle. I never could find a wood stock (or stock maker that would cut down and create something that could give me that Lewis Gun look for the rear), so I settled for this Sten Gun looking thing. The other roadblock was the drum magazine. Drums will just not fit on this skull lower, so I'll paint up a couple of my old military surplus M16 mags for it. It has a 1911 grip, which I think makes it look cool, and gives it some wood for that old look. The other stumbling block was that cone shaped flash hider. They just don't make a flash hider like that for the AR15 - the various Commie guns with cones like that have the wrong thread pitch. Amazingly, the M1 (or maybe M2) Carbine has that thread pitch and the exact barrel width, and for a time they used that cone shaped flash hider. I'm not sure when those were used, but a company called Inland is making repro M1 Carbines and this beauty is offered in their parts department. On this build, it will be antiqued brass. The paint equipment is on the way - bake-on Cerakote and Duracoat colors to mimic brass, copper, olive drab, gray Parkerizing, etc. I've got some stencils to put on different places, but they won't be too flashy, since they'll go on in olive drab over "aged" brass and gray Parkerizing. Everything will be painted and these bake-on gun paints are as tough or tougher than any bluing or Parkerizing. The only black parts on the rifle will be the sights. I'll actually paint on the wear and tear for the antique look - greenish showing through the brass parts and stuff like that. Notice that the front handguard goes right over the gas block where the sight normally mounts. I found a low mount gas block that will hide under that long handguard. The front sight is more of a traditional looking thing that will fit on the end of the barrel, tightened on with screws. I neglected to slip that on for the photo. Just finding a sight like that had me pulling out my hair, but I finally found one. Without that detail, it would just look like a gussied up AR15. I'd have to go with a short handguard, and a standard front sight mounted on the gas block, etc, - that front sight solved a bunch of problems in getting a look I could live with. Oh, and with that front sight I get an extra seven inches of sight radius. Those who are iron sight rifle shooters will appreciate it isn't really the length of the barrel that counts for accuracy, it's the distance between the sights, which makes for a finer sight picture. The barrel is free-floated with a fast 1 in 7 twist (for heavy slugs), so it may be a very accurate rifle when finished. It will still be a few weeks before the final product. I need to take the painting slow, work with different color combinations, mix paints and see what each one looks like - for example, I order a light "Parkerizing" gray, so I may add various amounts of olive drab to darken it and choose the tint I want. All of the brass needs olive drab under it, baked on, then a coating with the brass, scrub off bits here and there with acetone so the green shows through then bake on everything for the antique look. It would just be a shame to spend all this money and then rush the paint job. I'll probably do one color a day, clean out the airbrush, then do another color the next day.