PLEASE WHEN WAS THIS KNIFE ISSUED !!

Hi all
another of my posts of questions for this i do apolagise. I bought this knife from america about 9 months ago i was told that it was maybe a navy issue ww2 knife. Any ideas guys, marked u.s UTICA CUTLERY. NICE KNIFE ALSO DOES ANYONE KNOW THE VALUE I PAID 46 DOLLARS. I think it resembles a k bar
Thanks again

 

possibly post war korean, mk2? and worth double what you paid dean..

found this too. which confirms what I thought, early production (1943), or WWII; as all variations of "early" KA-BAR were Blade Marked. Guard marking was begun in later 1944, but the Crossguards were Curved Up at each end. Strait Crossguards indicate Post-WWII (Korean War)

 

IT would have been worth double if any of the original finish was left on the blade.

The Mk2's weren't stamped "Utica" until after WW2, Ray is right on the money and what you paid is a pretty fair price.

 

I also think that the straight aspect is 1950s, possibly 1960s, but it is great looking nonetheless

 

Thankyou
i really love this piece it has alot of character and feels very nice

 

in maybe 10 years could it be worth more than 46 dollars ? , it did come straight from a veteran who served in the usmc and the navy.
p.s thanks all for your very valid help once again

 

most certainly, lets put it this way dean, it wont depreciate, ray..

 

Ray can u suggest any protection for the blade, i have been told to use vaseline (petrolem jelly) or wd40 ? need your expert advise please

 

Forget WD 40? smelly stuff...A thin smear of Vaseline/petroleum jelly is fine, 3 in 1, or a good gun oil...use a rag to apply..

Don't store it in the sheath. as leather collects moisture and can create marks on the blade.

 

Does that apply to all blades as i have a mint unissued m1 garand pal bayonet. I have also used the vaseline on that is that ok

 

that applies to all knives/swords, dean..

 

Keep the petroleum/ oil based stuff off of the leather handle and scabard though. Use a saddle soap or mineral oil.

 

Thanks guys

 

Even better than mineral oil or saddle soap (which is a cleaner), use 100% Pure Neatsfoot oil. That is the absolute best for all leather products. I use a Fiebing's brand on my leather jackets, holsters, and used to use it on all our horse tack as well. The saddle soap is okay for a clean-up on the surface to get off all the old junk, but then a nice coating of Neatsfoot and a buff-up will keep leather in great condition for decades.

BTW, mineral oil is petroleum based. It is just really thin and baby oil is really just mineral oil with a fragarence (sp?).

 

fine piece, but, definetly post ww2.